ClimbingThailandCrazy Horse Buttress

Crazy Horse Buttress

Also known as: Crazy Horse Caves, Tham Muang On

50m buttress rising from forest; airy caves; northern Thai countryside

Limestone karst crag
SportTradMulti-pitch
Grade range
5 to 8a (French) French sport
A man climbs a steep rock face surrounded by greenery in Ko Tao, Thailand.

The climbing

What there is to climb at Crazy Horse Buttress, and whether a mixed-ability group can split up here.

Manta comparison band
Grades 2 to 52-5 (beginner to hard)
Routes & sectors

~150 area routes (buttress proper ~25); area approaching 300 with sectors

Local testpieces

A Wild Ride on a Crazy Horse (8a+); The Beehouse (6c+); Muppet Show (5c); Ahya (6a)

Splitting the group

~20 crags plus two caves; beginner French-5 walls to hard projects; caves for multi-pitch

Accessibility & group fit

2-min approach to main buttress; good for mixed-ability and family groups

Rock & setting

Rock type & quality

Limestone karst; compact, hard, mostly positive; sharp in places, polished slopers on popular lines

Style, angle & exposure

Tufas, crimps, pumpy overhangs, slabs; single-pitch sport, short multi-pitch, cave climbs

Aspect & shade

Primarily south-facing, sun-exposed; west face gets morning shade

Crowds

Quietest region in Thailand; open routes even at busiest crag

Season & conditions

Dry / climbable window

Oct-Mar

Best season

Nov-Feb

Seasonal specials

Cool dry season; CMRCA morning shuttle

Hot in sun; south-facing; farmer burning-season haze/smoke Feb-Apr

Approach & gear

Printed guidebook ~500 baht at CMRCA; parking at trailhead; read posted water-project notice. Confirm.

Permits and operators change - confirm before booking.

Approach

2 min to buttress from top parking; other sectors few min on marked trails

Transport

45-min drive from Chiang Mai to Mae On; CMRCA/Progression Crew shuttle available

Rack & gear

60-70m rope, 12-16 draws; extra gear for cave multi-pitch; mobile signal patchy

Accommodation

Chiang Mai city lodging; some Mae On homestays

Facilities

Restrooms and water kiosk at parking (water unreliable)

Bolting & safety

Bolting & anchors

Developed and maintained by Progression Crew (formerly CMRCA); generally good. Confirm.

Hazards

Sharp rock, polished holds, heat, dry-season haze; loose blocks in spots

Guiding

Not required; CMRCA / Progression Crew guiding and courses available

Emergency & rescue

Chiang Mai hospitals ~45 min; CMRCA local contact

This profile is desk research, compiled from public sources - not a first-hand crag report. Coordinates are approximate.

Also in Thailand

Climb Crazy Horse Buttress with your crew
Manta plans the crag days, the rest days and what everyone else does so a mixed group all get a great trip.
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