Long Dong

Also known as: Dragon Cave, 龍洞, Longdong

Pacific-sea-cliffs; reefs; premier-Taiwan-crag; NE-coast-scenic-area

Sandstone sea-cliff
SportTradMulti-pitch
Grade range
5.3-5.14b YDS
Explore the breathtaking view from a cave overlooking lush hills and the coastline in New Taipei City, Taiwan.

The climbing

What there is to climb at Long Dong, and whether a mixed-ability group can split up here.

Manta comparison band
Grades 2 to 52-5
Routes & sectors

571 theCrag; 9-sectors

Local testpieces

Ragged-Robin 5.7; Dream-of-White-Dragons 5.9; One-Way-Ticket 5.10c; Dragonslayer 5.9

Splitting the group

beginner-sport-Long-Lane; trad-Music-Hall; hard-sport-Back-Door

Accessibility & group fit

all-levels; big-moderate-cluster-5.10-5.11; great-for-mixed-groups

Rock & setting

Rock type & quality

bullet-hard-sandstone; sea-cliff

Style, angle & exposure

cracks; faces; roofs; slabs; highball-over-water; sea-exposure

Aspect & shade

seaward-faces; varied-aspect-across-sectors. Confirm.

Crowds

popular-weekends; spread-across-9-sectors

Season & conditions

Dry / climbable window

mid-autumn-to-mid-spring; plum-rain-Apr-Jun; summer-hot. Confirm.

Best season

Oct-May

Seasonal specials

sea-cliff-tide-pools; snorkel-cliff-jump-summer

typhoons-Aug-Sep; NE-monsoon-swell-winter; plum-rain; big-swell-splash. Confirm.

Approach & gear

NE-Coast-National-Scenic-Area; free-access; camping-tolerated-low-key. Confirm.

Permits and operators change - confirm before booking.

Approach

under-5min-boulder-scramble; some-class4-traverse

Transport

bus-Taipei/Ruifang/Keelung-to-Hemei-Elementary-or-Xilingyan-Temple. Confirm.

Rack & gear

sport-draws-plus-trad-rack; check-bolt-status-spreadsheet; signal-ok

Accommodation

The-Bivy; Crack-House; camp-on-rocks-or-grass-above-cliff

Facilities

roadside-parking; limited-onsite; town-services-Taipei-Keelung

Bolting & safety

Bolting & anchors

sea-corrosion-shortens-bolt-life; volunteer-load-testing; traffic-light-spreadsheet. Confirm.

Hazards

tide; big-swell-splash; corroded-fixed-gear; sea-approach-scrambles

Guiding

none-required; guiding-available

Emergency & rescue

call-119; coastal-rescue. Confirm.

This profile is desk research, compiled from public sources - not a first-hand crag report. Coordinates are approximate.

Also in Taiwan

Climb Long Dong with your crew
Manta plans the crag days, the rest days and what everyone else does so a mixed group all get a great trip.
Plan a climbing trip