Magic Wood
Also known as: Averstal
Moss-covered gneiss blocks in alpine forest; Averstal valley
The climbing
What there is to climb at Magic Wood, and whether a mixed-ability group can split up here.
1450-plus problems Confirm.
The Understanding 8C; The Knowing 8B; Muttertag 8A; Supernova 7C; Barbarella 6C+; Supercrack 6C
Wide grade spread; beginners on easy blocs while strong climbers project nearby
Good for mixed boulder groups; forest terrain uneven; not wheelchair-friendly
Rock & setting
Gneiss boulders; solid grippy
Steep overhangs; crimps; slopers; compression; highballs common
Forested shade; cool damp microclimate
Popular; busy autumn weekends Confirm.
Season & conditions
Dry cool days best; forest holds moisture after rain Confirm.
Apr-Jun; Sep-Oct (autumn prime)
Autumn friction peak; camping typically open Jun-Oct Confirm.
Rain; humidity; seepage in shaded forest; cold snaps
Approach & gear
Parking approx 5 CHF non-guests; bouldering only in marked zones; renaturalization areas closed Confirm.
Permits and operators change - confirm before booking.
5-10min forest walk from parking/Bodhi Camping; marked paths only
Car to Ausserferrera/Averstal; Splugen/Bellinzona hub; limited transit Confirm.
Pads; brush; shoes; pad/shoe hire at Bodhi; patchy signal Confirm.
Bodhi Camping approx 16 CHF; wild camping banned (fines up to 1000 CHF); Gasthaus Edelweiss
Camping toilets; gasthaus; shop/hire Confirm.
Bolting & safety
n-a (bouldering)
Highball landings; wet slippery blocks; forest access restrictions; stay on paths
None; self-guided
Rega air rescue 1414; Euro 112
This profile is desk research, compiled from public sources - not a first-hand crag report. Coordinates are approximate.