The Gunks
Also known as: Shawangunks
White cliffs over valley; Catskill views; Mohonk Preserve
The climbing
What there is to climb at The Gunks, and whether a mixed-ability group can split up here.
Trapps 400+; 1000+ ridge-wide
Supercrack 5.12c; To Have or Have Not 5.12; Vandals 5.13; High Exposure 5.6; Foops 5.11c
Trapps moderates; Near Trapps steeper; Skytop/Millbrook advanced; grade-clustered
Superb trad-moderate range; roadside Trapps; classic beginner-to-expert trad
Rock & setting
Shawangunk quartz conglomerate/quartzite; hard; horizontal breaks; solid
Horizontal-jug faces; big roofs/overhangs; airy exposure; multi-pitch 1-3
Trapps SE-facing sunny; Near Trapps shadier; morning sun
Very busy prime weekends; Trapps crowded; quieter cliffs available
Season & conditions
Spring and fall prime; dry conglomerate; roofs stay dry in light rain
Apr-Jun; Sep-Nov
Fall foliage; peak friction crisp autumn days
Humid summers; thunderstorms; winter closure conditions; seepage
Approach & gear
Mohonk Preserve day pass required (annual option); pay at Visitor Center/kiosk; some cliffs seasonal raptor closures. Confirm.
Permits and operators change - confirm before booking.
10-20 min carriage road + climbers paths
Car; hub New Paltz; ~90 min NYC; Trapps roadside parking
Full trad rack; long slings for horizontals; 60m rope; decent cell
No Preserve camping; American Alpine Club Gunks camp; motels/B&Bs New Paltz. Confirm.
Visitor Center; restrooms; Rock and Snow gear New Paltz; town amenities
Bolting & safety
Trad ethic; few fixed anchors; tree/gear belays; check fixed pins. Confirm.
Roof route-finding; sandbagged grades; loose blocks; ticks; raptor closures
None required; only Preserve-permitted guide services may operate commercially
Preserve rangers; 911; hospitals Kingston/Poughkeepsie
This profile is desk research, compiled from public sources - not a first-hand crag report. Coordinates are approximate.