Smith Rock
Also known as: Smith
Crooked River gorge; Monkey Face spire; high-desert canyon; Cascade views
The climbing
What there is to climb at Smith Rock, and whether a mixed-ability group can split up here.
1800-2,000+ routes
To Bolt or Not To Be 5.14a; Just Do It 5.14c; Chain Reaction 5.12c; Monkey Face routes; Churning in the Wake 5.13a
Abundant single-pitch sport by grade; beginner areas (Rope-de-Dope); multi-pitch/Monkey Face for advanced
Excellent mixed-group hub; birthplace of US sport climbing; huge moderate range
Rock & setting
Welded rhyolite tuff; solid featured; some flaky/chossy sections; basalt columns
Technical vertical sport; pockets/edges; some trad; multi-pitch spires; sustained crimpy
River-canyon aspects vary; chase sun/shade; Dihedrals morning shade
Popular; sport crags busy weekends; weekdays and outlying walls quieter
Season & conditions
Spring-fall prime; summer hot midday (climb shade/AM); winter cold but dry days possible
Mar-May; Sep-Nov (spring/fall)
Cool crisp spring/fall friction; shoulder-season quiet
Summer heat on sunny walls; winter cold/rain; wind; river-canyon microclimate
Approach & gear
Oregon State Park day-use fee (per vehicle); no wilderness permit; seasonal raptor closures possible. Confirm.
Permits and operators change - confirm before booking.
10-40 min; steep down into canyon then along river; return uphill
Redmond/Bend ~30-45 min; car essential; near Terrebonne
Sport draws (long routes; bring many); light trad rack for cracks; cell service decent at rim, patchy in canyon
The Bivy walk-in climbers campground (first-come, per-person fee, no vehicles); Skull Hollow primitive nearby; Terrebonne/Bend lodging. Confirm.
Welcome center; restrooms; showers at Bivy; Terrebonne/Redmond/Bend full services
Bolting & safety
Well-bolted sport; historic bolts on some classics; ongoing rebolting; check anchors. Confirm.
Loose flakes on some tuff; long sustained pitches; heat on sunny walls; steep approach return; rattlesnakes/ticks
Not required; permitted local guide services
Deschutes County SAR; Redmond/Bend hospitals; park staff; dial 911
This profile is desk research, compiled from public sources - not a first-hand crag report. Coordinates are approximate.