Mount Somers
Also known as: Sharplin Falls
Mt Somers/Te Kiekie; Hakatere Conservation Park; hexagonal rhyolite columns
The climbing
What there is to climb at Mount Somers, and whether a mixed-ability group can split up here.
Dozens across Pinnacles Hut area and rhyolite formations
Freestanding pinnacles bolted sport (low teens-mid 20s); upper rhyolite columns mostly trad
Pinnacles cluster bolted for groups; rhyolite trad separate; remote so committing
Long ~2.5-3hr walk-in filters casual groups; best for fit committed parties
Rock & setting
Andesite (crumbly) on lower pinnacles; harder hexagonal rhyolite columns higher; care with loose rock
Sport and trad; 1-3 pitch; crumbly andesite pinnacles low, hexagonal rhyolite columns higher; exposed alpine
Mountain formations, mixed aspect; exposed, limited shade
Quiet; long approach keeps numbers low; solitude
Season & conditions
Summer best; wet/cold alpine shuts it; snow lingers shoulder
Nov-Apr; summer-autumn; dry settled spells
Alpine tramp-and-climb; Pinnacles Hut base camp
Alpine weather; cold, wind, rain; rapid change; sun exposure
Approach & gear
Hakatere Conservation Park (DOC); Pinnacles Hut bookings required Oct-Apr. Confirm.
Permits and operators change - confirm before booking.
~2.5-3hr walk from Sharplin Falls carpark to Pinnacles Hut; crags ~10 min above hut
From Staveley/Methven to Sharplin Falls carpark (4km from Staveley); car needed; then tramp in
Trad rack for rhyolite plus draws for pinnacles; multi-pitch/abseil kit; little-no cell
Pinnacles Hut (serviced, ~19 bunks, book Oct-Apr); Methven/Staveley lodging
Pinnacles Hut (water, toilet, bunks); no crag services
Bolting & safety
Pinnacles fully bolted sport; rhyolite mostly trad with some sport and bolt anchors. Confirm.
Crumbly andesite loose rock; alpine weather; long remote approach; multi-pitch commitment. Confirm.
None required; alpine/trad experience advised
111; NZ LandSAR; remote-self-reliance and PLB advised
This profile is desk research, compiled from public sources - not a first-hand crag report. Coordinates are approximate.