Mangaokewa
Also known as: Mangaokewa Gorge, Te Kuiti
Mangaokewa Scenic Reserve; gorge, river, waterfalls
The climbing
What there is to climb at Mangaokewa, and whether a mixed-ability group can split up here.
~115 lines (30+ in first 3 months of development)
French Ethics 15; Prokarstination 22 (roof); Ikarus 29
Two tiers - lower vertical/slab, upper overhung; short overhangs offer bouldering
Very close to Te Kuiti but CURRENTLY CLOSED to climbing
Rock & setting
Limestone, generally solid and featured; some loose rock and soft sandstone bands; helmets recommended
Steep powerful sport limestone; tufas, colonettes, dead stalactites; overhanging
Closed - no access
Season & conditions
Overhanging rock stays dry in rain; n-a while closed
All-weather (overhangs shed rain); currently closed
West-coast rain; overhangs remain dry
Approach & gear
CURRENTLY CLOSED - do not climb; access negotiations under way with DOC and Iwi; climbing while closed jeopardises future access. Confirm.
Permits and operators change - confirm before booking.
SH30 south ~2 km from Te Kuiti, signposted Mangaokewa Scenic Reserve turnoff; short track up
Te Kuiti (King Country); own car
Sport draws; helmet; rural cell
Reserve free camping, flush toilets, BBQ pits, river (when open)
Reserve toilets, BBQ pits, camping (when open)
Bolting & safety
Bolted sport; Double Bolt Belays and lower-offs. Confirm.
CLOSED access; loose rock and soft sandstone bands; helmet for belayer
Dial 111; Te Kuiti nearby
This profile is desk research, compiled from public sources - not a first-hand crag report. Coordinates are approximate.