Mizugaki
Also known as: 瑞牆山, Mizugaki-yama
Jagged granite peak 2230m; maple/pine forest; Kanmanboron 200m monolith; cradle of Japanese trad
The climbing
What there is to climb at Mizugaki, and whether a mixed-ability group can split up here.
theCrag 195 routes; many more in Japanese guidebooks. Confirm.
A Thousand Days of Lapis Lazuli 5.14a R/X (Moai Face); Cosmos 5.13a; Canoe 5.11b; Gonbei 2 5.11a; Floatin V16 boulder; Asura V8
Sport at Kasameri Sawa + trad/multipitch Toichimen/Fudo Sawa + boulders; split by sector/discipline
Little beginner terrain; longer alpine approaches; best for experienced/independent parties
Rock & setting
Fine-grained granite; alpine character; some loose/gardening on off-routes
Fine-granite cracks, slabs, faces; alpine multipitch trad + steep sport (Kasameri); highball boulders
Varied; south walls sunny; forested shade in gullies
Quieter than Ogawayama; Kasameri busy weekends; remote towers solitary. Confirm.
Season & conditions
Apr-Nov; avoid tsuyu Jun; cold/snow winter at altitude. Confirm.
Apr-Nov; boulders best cool autumn; sport spring-autumn
Autumn maple foliage; jagged 2230m peak; alpine ambiance
Alpine weather swings; tsuyu rain Jun; wet gardening on lesser routes; cold. Confirm.
Approach & gear
Within Chichibu-Tama-Kai NP; parking/camp fees; JFCA (freeclimb.jp) contact for access/ethics. Confirm.
Permits and operators change - confirm before booking.
Park at Mizugaki trailhead/campsite (approx 35.896249,138.573373); approaches 15-60 min; alpine, gardening
Car; near Mizugaki-yama, Yamanashi; approx 2.5-3 hr from Tokyo; seasonal bus from Nirasaki stn. Confirm.
Full trad rack incl doubles/big cams; multipitch kit; pads for boulders; mobile patchy. Confirm.
Base campground (popular); mountain huts/guesthouses 10-15 min drive; towns 30-40 min
Trailhead kiosk; campsite toilets; limited on-site services
Bolting & safety
Sport bolts at Kasameri; trad elsewhere; bold runouts on hard trad; verify fixed gear. Confirm.
Bold trad runouts; loose rock/gardening; bears; alpine weather; navigation to hidden towers
None required; JMGA guides advised for bold trad/multipitch
Police 110; fire/ambulance 119; mountain rescue via police; limited signal
This profile is desk research, compiled from public sources - not a first-hand crag report. Coordinates are approximate.