Jogasaki

Also known as: 城ヶ崎, Jogasaki (Jogasaki-kaigan). Rock: basalt/andesite volcanic sea-cliff.

Dramatic Izu sea-cliffs; ocean; Kadowaki lighthouse + suspension bridge; tourist coast

Volcanic sea-cliff
SportTrad
Grade range
YDS 5.7-5.14b Japanese (Dankyu) + YDS
A lone hiker stands atop a rocky mountain peak under a bright blue sky.

The climbing

What there is to climb at Jogasaki, and whether a mixed-ability group can split up here.

Manta comparison band
Grades 2 to 52-5
Routes & sectors

theCrag 180 routes across coastal sectors

Local testpieces

Circus 5.12c; Cam Friday 5.10b; Taigan Fist 5.9; Sunset Wall steep testpieces 5.10-5.13

Splitting the group

Family Crack (easier trad) + Sunset (hard sport) + TR-only cliffs; sectors dispersed along coast

Accessibility & group fit

Tourist coast; some sectors need rappel to beach; tide-aware; moderate group fit

Rock & setting

Rock type & quality

Young volcanic basalt/andesite (columnar); featured; salt-exposed, verify fixed gear

Style, angle & exposure

Volcanic sea-cliff sport + trad; steep/overhanging (Sunset approx 115deg) plus vertical technical + cracks; very exposed to sea/salt

Aspect & shade

Mostly S/SE/SW; sunny/warm in winter; little shade

Crowds

Popular winter weekends; tourists on cliff-top trail. Confirm.

Season & conditions

Dry / climbable window

Oct-Apr prime; humid/hot Jun-Sep; tsuyu Jun; swell/tide dependent. Confirm.

Best season

Oct-Apr (colder months preferred; dark S-facing rock warm in winter sun)

Seasonal specials

Winter sun on south walls; ocean setting; whale-season coast views

Sea swell/high waves; salt spray; summer heat/humidity; typhoon season. Confirm.

Approach & gear

Within Jogasaki NP; new bolting banned without JFA + NP permission; many routes now TR-only; paid parking. Confirm.

Permits and operators change - confirm before booking.

Approach

Coastal hiking trail from Futo / Jogasaki-kaigan / Izu-kogen stns approx 30-40 min; some sectors require rappel to beach; paid parking

Transport

Izukyu line to Jogasaki-kaigan/Izu-kogen/Futo; car approx 90 min from Tokyo

Rack & gear

Draws + trad rack; long slings; salt-resistant/checked gear; TR setups some sectors; good mobile signal. Confirm.

Accommodation

Izu-kogen/Ito hotels, guesthouses, campsites; tourist accommodation

Facilities

Tourist-town amenities; toilets; cafes; paid parking

Bolting & safety

Bolting & anchors

Sea-salt corrodes fixed gear - inspect; new bolting prohibited; many sectors TR-only. Confirm.

Hazards

Tides/waves/swell; rappel access; corroded fixed gear; slippery salted rock; TR-only sectors; respect NP/tourists

Guiding

None required; trad/sea-cliff experience advised; local guides available

Emergency & rescue

Police 110; fire/ambulance 119; coast guard 118; good access/signal

This profile is desk research, compiled from public sources - not a first-hand crag report. Coordinates are approximate.

Also in Japan

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