Squamish

Also known as: The Chief, Stawamus

Stawamus Chief monolith; Howe Sound; little-Yosemite granite

Granite
SportTradBoulderingMulti-pitch
Grade range
5.4-5.14c; V0-V14 YDS (5.x) + V-scale
A stunning view of a rocky mountain peak under a vibrant blue sky in the Pyrenees, near Barcelona, Spain.

The climbing

What there is to climb at Squamish, and whether a mixed-ability group can split up here.

Manta comparison band
Grades 2 to 52-5
Routes & sectors

1500+ routes; ~2,000 boulder problems

Local testpieces

Grand Wall 5.11a; University Wall 5.12; Cobra Crack 5.14

Splitting the group

Smoke Bluffs single-pitch beginners; Chief multi-pitch strong; boulders separate

Accessibility & group fit

Roadside; wide grade spread; good for mixed groups

Rock & setting

Rock type & quality

Granite; excellent; solid

Style, angle & exposure

Granite; crack; slab; face; multi-pitch; friction

Aspect & shade

Chief west-facing sunny PM; Smoke Bluffs mixed shade

Crowds

Busy summer weekends; classics crowded

Season & conditions

Dry / climbable window

Jun-Aug driest; May+Oct shoulder wet. Confirm.

Best season

May-Sep

Seasonal specials

Oct crisp send temps; long-wall Chief in summer

Coastal rain; wet friction; seepage after storms. Confirm.

Approach & gear

Free day-use crags; provincial/municipal parks

Permits and operators change - confirm before booking.

Approach

1-20 min Smoke Bluffs; longer to Chief walls

Transport

1 hr N of Vancouver Hwy 99 Sea-to-Sky; Squamish Connector bus

Rack & gear

Full trad rack for Chief; draws for sport; pads for boulders; town cell coverage

Accommodation

Stawamus Chief campground; municipal campground; town lodging

Facilities

Town amenities; gear shops; campground toilets

Bolting & safety

Bolting & anchors

Mixed; sport bolted; trad gear anchors; varies by wall. Confirm.

Hazards

Slab falls; rain-slick friction; bears in area

Guiding

Not required; guides available

Emergency & rescue

Squamish SAR; hospital in town

This profile is desk research, compiled from public sources - not a first-hand crag report. Coordinates are approximate.

Also in Canada

Climb Squamish with your crew
Manta plans the crag days, the rest days and what everyone else does so a mixed group all get a great trip.
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